- Remove the console assembly from the armrest. This process is illustrated in the Bentley. The steps are, briefly: loosen the three screws from the underside of the front section of the armrest. You'll need a 4 or 5mm allen wrench for them, I think. One is just underneath the top edge, the second is located where the armrest angles upward, and the third is at the handle area (the part you grab to close the door) and screws the front piece into the rear section of the armrest. You should now be able to remove the armrest and the window switch/mirror control/seat memory unit just slides out the left side.
- Disconnect the electrical connector to the mirror control assembly. No other connectors need be removed if only the mirror control is to be repaired. On the right hand of the underneath of the console assembly is a plastic tang overlapping a protrusion on the mirror control assembly. Pry the tang slightly to the right and release the protrusion slightly. Using a hook of some kind, then pull the spring-loaded tangs on the left of the control assembly. The control assembly should now be free and can be removed through the inch or so gap between the console surface and the armrest. Now you can take the control assembly to a work area where small parts can be kept under control.
- The mirror control assembly is constructed in a manner similar to the seat heater switches. That is, there is a plastic shell that overlaps a set of protrusions. Removal is annoying but possible. Start at the spring-loaded tang end and use several tiny screwdrivers (or anything small and thin) to hold the tangs in by placing them under the plastic shell. Then use more jewelers screwdrivers to pry the other areas of the plastic shell to get them up over the protrusions. This is harder than for the seat heater switches as there are 6 protrusions altogether plus the spring-loaded tangs. But success comes to he/she who is patient.
- Pull off the plastic shell with the control side down! This will keep two ball bearings under control that are balanced on two posts. Put another way, pull out the circuit board with attached connector pins by pulling up.
- Once exposed, the two lamps are obvious. They can be replaced with the usual Radio Shack 12V DC, 60mA micro lamps in a 2-pack (Cat. No. 2721092B). I recommend replacing both bulbs, even if just one is blown. Note that Audi will not likely obtain a NASA quality award for their soldering/circuit board construction. Use a solder sucker on the lamp connections and keep your iron temperature just high enough to melt the solder cleanly without burning the flux. Check the other joints for cold solder connections. Check that the circuit trace did not move and cause a short. Check that the solder did not overrun the narrow circuit trace gaps and cause a short. Clean off the new flux with denatured alcohol and a brush.
- If necessary, the control assembly contacts can be cleaned, including those under the rubber pad. Depending on the selection of cleaning solvent, you may or may not improve things.
- Reassemble in reverse order, making sure the ball bearings are in their proper location. Once the plastic shell is snapped into the protrusions, you don't want to go in there again. Return to the vehicle and test the control assembly by reconnecting it outside the console. The connector should reach. The ignition key has to be on to run the mirrors. Shield the assembly from ambient light and check that the new lamps work. (Turn on the headlight switch.) If everything checks out, the control assembly can be reinstalled in the console, reconnected, and the console returned to its normal location. Be sure all other electrical connectors are in place. (Turn off the key and the headlights.)
- I found reinstalling the console to be tricky, as there was always some part that wanted to obstruct the reassembly. Some weaseling was ultimately successful in getting it back into position.
Mirror Control Bulbs
