The outer CV boots are the most prone to wear. You should keep an eye on them, because if they split open, the CV joint will sling grease all over the wheelwell, and the dry CV will soon fail (clicking noises while turning). Fortunately, the outer boots are easy to replace. Don't bother with boots sold in cain auto parts places that are split down the side and allow you to change the boot without removing the joint--they don't work. Get the kit (available from most aftermarket vendors) that includes new grease, axle bolt, and circlip. If possible, verify that the axle bolt has threads all the way up to the head.
Here's a list of what you'll need:
- Outer CV boot kit (1), should include boot, grease, new axle bolt, circlip, clamps, and dished washer
- P/N 895 498 203 - Front outer boot kit
- P/N 893 498 203 A - Rear outer boot kit
- Solvent for cleaning old grease out of CV joint. Spray brake cleaner will do, but it will take an entire can (or more) to do one joint
- 17mm 1/2" drive 6-point socket, 1/2" drive breaker bar and torque wrench
- Electrician end cutters, or a small tile nipper--for crimping the new clamps, can probably use to cut the old ones off, too
- two sets of pliers (preferably needle-nose)
- Rubber mallet
Here are the steps for replacement:
- If doing the front boots, turn the steering wheel all the way in the direction of the side you are working on.
- Slightly loosen the wheel bolts with the wheel on the ground.
- Use a breaker bar to loosen the axle bolt. Use a 1/2" drive socket and extension, because 3/8" won't hold up (experience talking here).
- Jack up that corner and support the car with a jackstand. Consider chocking the front wheel on the other side to prevent it from rolling backwards (since the steering is turned to full lock).
- Remove the wheel, then remove the axle bolt.
- Remove the pinch bolt that holds the ball joint in the hub assembly.
- Pop the ball joint out of the hub by gently pounding downward on the control arm with a rubber mallet. If you have an early car with the front swaybar links that attach to the control arm, you may have to loosen or remove those nuts.
- Pull the hub/strut assembly away from the driveshaft/CV joint until they separate.
- Cut the clamp on the large end of the boot, and push the boot back to expose the CV joint. Have a pan ready underneath to catch all the goo that will come oozing out.
- Line up the end of the CV joint (part that mates to the hub) along the axis of the driveshaft, and run the axle bolt into it. The bolt will stop when it contacts the driveshaft at the other end of the CV joint. Keep tightening the bolt until the joint pops off the shaft (this is why you need a bolt with threads all the way up to the head). Extract axle bolt from CV joint.
- Put the joint in a bucket and start cleaning it. That old grease will be stubborn, but you'll eventually get all of it out.
- Inspect the clean joint. Look for pitting of the surfaces, and feel for excessive free play. Discoloration of the metal in a symmetric pattern around the balls is normal.
- Use the two sets of needle nose pliers to remove the circlip from the driveshaft.
- Remove the "thrust ring" and dished washer from the driveshaft, taking note of their orientation.
- Cut the smaller clamp off of the boot and remove the boot from the driveshaft.
- Clean old grease off of driveshaft.
- Install new boot on driveshaft with new smaller clamp in place (but not tightened yet).
- Install new dished washer and original "thrust ring" on driveshaft.
- Install new circlip in groove on driveshaft.
- Install CV joint on driveshaft. Make sure it is held straight and carefully use a mallet to pop it over the circlip.
- Grease joint with new grease. The kit should have exactly 90g of grease, and you need to use all of it.
- Tighten small boot clamp with the end cutters, pull boot over joint, then put on the bigger clamp and tighten it.
- Insert CV joint back into the hub.
- Lift control arm up and install ball joint back into the hub. This will probably require sensible use of the mallet again.
- Reinstall pinch bolt to hold the ball joint to the hub. Technically, you should use a new self-locking nut.
- If swaybar links were loosened or removed, retighten them. Again, technically, you should replace any self-locking nuts.
- Remount the wheel and lower the car.
- Install the new axle bolt into the hub. Do this only with the car on the ground. Bentley says that for M16x1.5 axle bolts (front) you should tighten to 147 ft-lbs (I think), then turn another 90 degrees. The bolt in my kit was a lower grade than the original, and I was unable to get more than about 45 degrees comfortably. It stayed on fine, so just make sure that it's _really_ tight.
